• Zach Clock
    by H - Nick DiGiorgio on May 8, 2018 at 7:14 pm

      My final project was a clock. I planned on doing an abstract design but I still wanted to keep it simple. These were the 4 designs I had to decide between.   I chose to do the half circle design with the 4 etched rectangular designs. I liked how half of it is like a regular clock while the other half is somewhat abstract. The half circle is 4.5 inches and the 4 rectangular etches are 1.125 inches. 1.125 times 4 is 4.5. The lengths are equal.   This is the Adobe Illustrator design of the clock. I added a fifth rectangular etch piece and shortened each side from 1.125 inches to 0.9 inches.   These are the updated pieces of Aobe Illustrator design. I changed the design even more. The lines from the previous rectangular etchings would have affected the 12 and the 6. It is now a 4.5-inch half-circle with an extra 0.9-inch rectangle attached. There are 4 separate 1.7-inch wide rectangles leaving 0.8 inches for room for glue.    This is the cardboard cutout of each design. Each piece is assembled with tacky glue. This proved that the changes I made to the previous designs are usable.   This is the final design of my clock. I decided to stain it dark and keep lighter numbers because I like the contrast. I had to level out the motor with a scrap piece of wood. I also decided to cut the clock hands to make them a little shorter and make one white and one black. I also arranged the numbers differently on the right side of the clock. Since the left side is like a regular clock I arranged the numbers normally. The right side of the clock is arranged differently because of the more abstract design.&nbs […]

  • Shin and Luke final project
    by Luke Culver on October 24, 2017 at 6:53 pm

    On the first day, we began with trying to design and make an amplifier. 10/15Then Mr. D told us that we should make a bluetooth speaker. Mr. D already had the basic bluetooth set, so all we have to do, is buy the other materials needed, and assemble the speaker. We were very interested in making the ampliphier meaning the thing the speakers sit in. Our original design was to have the speakers inside cheif wahoo, and the sound would come out of the mouth.   Today we also received the circut board, which was in a set Mr.D gave us to connect, to the speaker. This board generates electricty is what essentally gets the speakers the play music. Next class we will envistigate more how to use it, and charge it. 10/17Today we decided to start working on our paper prototype of the speaker, and finalize our design. The image of our design is attached below. We would like to do that desgin, but also with a "Day of the Dead Theme".  This is the new design we looked at that we plan to base our design off ofA large issue with this design, is the material is very expensive for this kind of wood. It is priced at 1,350$ online, and it will most likely cost around that to build. Instead, we plan to make the speaker witha a much cheaper wood material, and speaker. We also plan on adding a Day of the Dead10/19 Today we were able to learn more about our circut board. We learned how to charge it, and give it electiricity. The picture is an image of our circuit board, plugged in and working. If you look closely, you can see a blue light that is bright from the electricity.  Today, we made a "sloppy" sketch for our speaker design. The front would be a Dio De Lo Muertos skull and the eyes would be the speakers. It would stand up properly because there would be planks attached on all the sides to make it stand up. The fixed some issues with the design in this new sketch. We decided, instead of making a curved edge, we decided to make all the edges straight, so that we can laser cut a side for the speaker.Today, we made a cardstock skull (our prototype). Suprisingly this took us a while because we thought, that we couldn't print out curves on inscape, later Mr.D said we could.  we will further this design more with details like the Dia De los Muertos skull. We instead of kerf cutting, make planks for every straight side of the skull. Which wasn't very smart. We then remembered kerf cutting and got hooked on that idea. 10/23Today, we did a lot of research on kerf cutting, because for our design we are going to kerf cut the back side of the skeleton. Here is a website that helped aid our understanding, We also started on a really simple inscape design,this is a really basic, design we will further it with more design, like dia de los muertos. Today, we designed the speaker on inkscape to laser cut on cardboard the next day. Mr.D said that instead of making all the edges straight, we could use a kerf cut to make the wood bend. Both of us did not understand fully how the cut worked, so we researched into it, a lot of class. In the bin against the wall, Mr.D showed us multiple examples of Kerf Cutting, but we could not use most of them due to their fragility. Another obstacle we have come across is the measurement. We need to find the measurement of curved lines, and find the perimeter, and create a kerf to fit that perimeter. I believe this process will take a long time.10/23Today we did not have much time to work because we had to clean the room up and look over each other's online webpages. Today, we began the design for the kerf cut that we will be using for the back of the speaker. We bagan by creating a line on inkscape, and then copying and pasting it to create two lines, four lines, etc. We then began to copy a whole row, and paste them below the first row in a jagged order. We plan to find the measurements of the inkscape prototype and use the kerf cut soon.10/26 Today we will work on our kerf cut, and finding the measurements of the prototype.  this is our Kerf Cut, in Inskape. Kerf Cut, if a way to vinyl cut wood to make it bendable. Our back of the skull will be kerf cut. Basically in Inskape, we make a pattern of lines and copy and pasted and aligned the lines. We will shorten how much wood is kerf cutted, but we wanted to see how it would look and work. Today, we laser cutted out the skull. This went very smoothly and well. The only thing we did wrong was forgot to take out the filling of the eyes. This step took a while, but it was a neccnow we will work, on printed out kerf cut, and we are waiting for the speakers to come. We made this skull in inscape. Today, the speakers came! We quickly set them up with getting the circuit board ready and plugged in. Than we cut the wires from the speakers so that the white plastic part wasn't there. than put them into the green part of the circuit board, screwed them in, and music started playing. Looking the speaker as the eyes of the skull makes the skull look ten times better. here is a picture, of a playing speaker, for the eyes. This is not what the final design will look like but it helps us get measurments, and get a visual. Next class we will work on, laser cutting our kerf cut, but today was definatly a day, full of progress and success. Today we also agreed upon making a kerf cut socket for the speakers to sit in, because without that, the speakers wont be stable.  Today we,cut out our kerf cut sides, for the skull. We hot glued it down to the side, because its a prototype. We also made kerf cut sockets for the speakers to sit in. We made these designs in inscape, and just laser cutted them out. It surprisingly wasn't that hard, we just made a pattern in inscape. Although this is just a prototype, our gluing methods were not the most accurate, and some of the edges around the top curve were showing. This bothered us quite a lot due to our need for perfection, but we decided in the end, it was just a prototype, and perfection is not needed.So today we cut out the sides for the straight edges. We ran into a dilemma though, because we didn't print them the same height as the kerf cut. We realized this when we were gluing them down and fixed the side measurements. We changed the inkscape measurements for the carboard measurements through inkscape, and it fit perfeclty. Now all we have to do is make sockets for the speakers to sit in, and also find a space for the kerf cut. image of, sides with kerf cut, can see errorprototype with good side lengthSo in todays class we came up with a creative idea, to have speakers sit in kerf cut, in inside of skull. This would be alternative to screwing. We didn't want to screw because we didn't want nails to be showing. This would also be an alternative to hot gluing. This class we also printed out cardboard back of skull.The Kerf cut also provided quite a stable support to the speakers, but we were not sure whether the speakers would stay in place with the fragility of the cardboard.this is a picture of back of skull printout.image we kerf cut sockets.  This class we put everything together. We took the speakers out though because it is just a prototype. We also had the idea to have the mouth be piece of paper and circuit board would sit on that. Next class we are just going to start on wood prototype. this class we began our wood prototype!! We printed our wood skull, and also printed out the kerf cut. In the picture, you can see the kerf cut attached to the skull. This took us a very long time because we wanted it too look very professional so wanted to take a long time glueing, so there weren't any errors. We were very satisfired with doing this because we are getting closer to being done class by class. this is a picture of our printed out skull, w kerf cut on outside.This class, is our second to last so we planned on doing a lot, and we did. We printed out all of, the sides, thorugh laser cutter, and inscape. We also set the speakers up in the eyes, printed out a back to the speaker, and decided upon making kerf cut, be in the mouth so the circuit board could sit on it. . We also make an acces point for the charger through a side of the wood. this is a picture of the access point for the charger. We simply just, cut out an opening in one of the sides.  this is a picture of the sides cut out, we cut out these sides through inscape.  this is a picture of everything together, and the speakers set in the eyes. We simply just got glued the speakers in the eyes. We made the finished touches this class! All we have to do now is make a presentation! this is a picture, of cardboard prototype, and the finshished one.  Class ReflectionI am very happy with how our project turned out. All the hours and effort spent on this project paid off, when our final project was done. We were very satisfied with the crastmanship, and the final product of this speaker. I think we could of went the easy way out and did something simple, like the basketball hoop, but I am so glad we challenged ourself and made something, that we can actally use and is really cool. I also think we could of done this in a quick, and sloppy way but I'm really glad we put in the extra work to have an awesome final product.--Luke CulverClass Reflection    This project was extremely fun to make. My partner Luke and I both worked hard and well together to create this speaker. Our initial design was to create an amplifier with a 3D printer, but Mr. D lead us in a different direction. We ended up creating a Bluetooth speaker in the shape of a skull with the speaker as the eyes. From the beginning our project has always seemed to have gone right for us. We never really stumbled into any major changes in the design after deciding on a Bluetooth speaker. Also around the top of the speaker we used a kerf cut to account for the curve. With the exception of the materials used to make both the Bluetooth, and speakers connect, our design was totally built with wood. The look of the kerf cut was just so cool that we decided to use it as the mouth of the skull. yet I am most proud of how we were able to finish this project, and be satisfied with the product. There is such a large feeling of accomplishment when one creates something on their own (or with a partner), and that feeling was something I had never experienced before. Both Luke and I learned so much throughout the project, but the main takeaway from this experience is that so much is possible when you are given both time and materials to create whatever you want to.&nbs […]

  • Nikhil Villa Savoye Model
    by Nikhil Goel on October 13, 2017 at 3:59 pm

    This project really taught me about the tools that were available to me in the Fab Lab. I originally though about this project when I learned we had a final project in Modernism, and I decided I wanted to build something in the Fab Lab. I decided to build a model, and researched many different buildings like the Chrysler building and the Empire State building. In the end, I decided on Villa Savoye because it was an interesting building that represented Modernism well. I wasn’t sure how to start the project, but Mr. Digorgio helped me figure out I needed to find a PDF of the floor plans. Luckily, I found the Corel files, and from there I managed to build the walls needed to build my model. I felt kind of uncomfortable about gluing my walls with tacky glue, but in the end I used the glue, - and hot glue in the end - and managed to finish my project. I learned a lot along the way, mainly learning how to turn an idea into the final product and how to solve many different challenges. I especially had trouble with making the project look nice and using the spray paint. I managed to spray paint most of it, but I did mess up spray painting the green part. However, I learned the best way to spray paint, and how to make a project look nice. I used many machines, like the laser cutter and band saw, and put everything together to get the final project.  Today I started by narrowing down my building to the Villa Savoye Model. I researched different models and designs, and found a helpful website. I'm planning to use floor plans to build the base, and see how that works. Then I can use the laser cutter to make the pieces of wood that I need to build it up. Today I found the rhino model of Villa Savoye and figured out how to import it on Corel Draw. I opened it up on Corel and separated the different layers out. I also decided the scale of the model, which is 1:65.8. I can now start making the sides and walls of the first layer.I changed the scale to 1:49.2 so it could fit on the laser cutter. I chose that because it was the largest scale that would fit. I printed out my first version but I decided it was too small so I reprinted with a bigger version. Unfortunately I forgot color mapping, so it is less sturdy than I wanted. My next step was to find the height. My first step was finding the height. I decided that the original was around 2.75 meters, which was around 9 feet. I divided it by my scale to get the height of 2.200563. I then used Corel to make three walls that I have to print out. I also realized that when I printed out the floor, it cut of the end, so I have to reprint the floor as well. I'm ready to see how the walls will work and hold up.I started making more walls for my prototype and printed 3 out. I first glued them, but then Mr. D told me to wait on gluing them and just get them all printed first. I'm making the rest of them now and will reprint the base and attach the walls. I printed them out and started marking and labeling my floor outline. I struggled to figure out how I would print my cardboard walls out and then know where to actually place the walls, since they all looked similar. I ended up having to do a complex system of labeling them. I started gluing them again, and just spent the day finishing making them. I faced some struggles using tacky glue, and it took a while to dry but in the end I finished.I started making the second floor walls, and also cut out the second floor outline. The way I make the walls is by making a square the size of the sides on Corel and then making it the height of every other wall.I finished the second walls and printed them out. I have to make sure I don't lose the pieces so I know where everything goes, because I labeled them based on the outline, so where each piece is on the cardboard is where each piece should go on the screen.I spent 5 hours in a row working on this project. I started by gluing the second walls on and then I printed out the third floor outline. I wasn't sure if I had to cover the top, but I looked at an image of the building and realized I didn't need a roof. I faced a big challenge when I printed out the wall and glued it and realized that I needed windows. I had to tear off the wall and cut out a window. I started by cutting out a big hole, but Mr D. told me that the window was not one, and I realized he was right. I tried spacing them out evenly by 0.1, but the space was so small it made no difference. I then printed again, and it looked very nice. Before I glued, I was trying to find a glue bottle that worked well and none of them were easy to use so I decided to use the hot glue, which made the process go so much faster. I glued on all the walls and then I made the third walls. I cut out the third walls and started to glue them on. One problem I faced was that when I tried to bend the cardboard creases appeared and it didn't glue very well. Since the top had a lot of curves it didn't look as good as I wanted. I ended up gluing all of the walls on and finishing all the walls. Then I decided to make the poles holding the building up, and I used the dowel rods we had. I measured the distance so the pylons would be the right size to fit and then tried using the band saw to cut out the rods. Unfortunately they were uneven, so I decided to use the later cutter. I put a straight line and then put the rods in the laser cutter. It cut them all evenly, but the top of each one was burned. I also needed to know where to put the rods, so I used the outline of the holes on Corel and then moved the floor down on the laser cutter so it would print. It printed black holes on the floor, but some of them were outside of the expected area. Also, the dowel rods on one side were uneven. I glued the rods on and then I finished building it. I learned a lot of different ways to use the laser cutter to my advantage, and I found out how to see the X and Y values for the edges of an object by clicking in the top left.My last step was spray painting it, and I asked Mr. Gainley to use the white spray paint. I let it dry for a few days, and it looked really good. Unfortunately since this was for a project and there were two colors the only other day I could spray paint it was on the day it was due, so I had to spray paint it really quickly and many of the dowel rods fell off.&nbs […]

  • Bradley Checkers Board
    by Bradley Moyer on October 11, 2017 at 6:22 pm

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              In the beginning, my initial idea for my checkers board was for the board to be made out of wood, the pieces to be 3D printed, and for there to be LED lights.  I started off with my project being twice as big as the final ended up being because I realized that the board was just going to be too big.  After I decided on the final dimensions, I printed out the board with its Cleveland theme with the laser cutter, and glued it in such a way that the top of the board only comes off for storage.  I then knew that I had to start making the 3D printed pieces, and these proved to be a difficult challenge.  On the 5th try, I finally printed the pieces the way I wanted them to be: they could stack on top of each other.  Throughout my various failed attempts, the pieces would have dimension issues that prevented them from stacking, and I even completely changed the design of them after the 2nd try.  The pieces took a while to print.    After all of the pieces were printed, it was too late in the course for me to have my original idea of having there be LED lights in the board.  It took a class or two for me to figure out a new direction for the project, until I decided that I would create piece holders.  Like the pieces themselves, these took multiple prototypes until one finally worked.  I then used that design and printed it onto wood using the laser cutter.  Upon closer inspection though, I did not like the burn marks the laser cutter made, and I wanted to cover them up, leading to me spray painting them black.  The spray painting took the remainder of the course at this time, and I completed my project.  I was happy that I could keep my Cleveland roots in the project design, and it's cool to see that I actually made this using my knowledge from this course.I plan on making a checkers board with a Cleveland theme.  The squares, when a piece is on it, I plan on designing so that they light up.  It will measure 20" (width) x 20" (length) by 4" (hight) without the tabs.  With tabs, the length and width is 21" and the height is the same.  The checkers board will be laser cut using 1/8" wood.  The pieces will be printed using the 3D printer.This is a cardboard prototype of the checkers board.  I made it half the size, and decided that I liked that better than the original 21" x 21" x 4".  The final project dimensions will now be 11.5" x 11.5" x 2.5".  I also realized here that the tabs that are used to lock the pieces together were to large, so they stuck out.  I the changed the tab dimensions to now have a "width" of sticking out of 1/8 of an inch.  The final inkscape svg and pdf documents are now uploaded to the page.After 2 classes of laser cutting and gluing, the wooden game board is complete.  Keeping it with the Cleveland theme, I added signature Cleveland phrases to the sides and bottom of the board through etching on the laser cutter.  The tabs, in some places, were looser than what they were designed to be, but others were perfect.  I decided to use tacky glue to make up for the minimal space between the ones which were loose, and they are settled in.  I decided not to glue the top part, so the hollow inside can be used for storing pieces and also space for when I need to put in the LED lights in.  I have decided that I am going to drill holes along the outside edge of the perimeter of the game board and the edge of the entire thing (kind of like the edge between the fairway and the green in golf for an analogy) to place the LED's.  I don't think pressure-sensitive LED's are feasible with the time remaining.  Next class I will begin to 3D print the pieces.Above are the first 4 designs I came up with for the pieces, which all failed.  The first design is in the far left picture (right one), and there was a gap between the logo and the bottom part of the piece, along with the fact that the pieces couldn't stack.  The second design is also in the far left picture (left one) and I ended fixing the gap, but not the fact that they couldn't stack.  After thinking about the design for a little bit, I switched gears to a completely different design for my third attempt.  The new design has a large circle at the bottom with a hole on the bottom for stacking, along with another smaller circle on top of the larger circle, with this smaller circle having the logo as a negative.  The problem with the third attempt was that they couldn't stack, and the logo was well defined.  I then went on to try 4, where I made the logo more defined, but they still couldn't stack.Featured below is the 5th and working design!  I fixed the problem of the pieces not stacking by making the bottom circle bigger, and the top circle the same dimensions as the 4th attempt.  They stack on top of each other flush, and I even found a setting for the bottom of the piece so that the netting doesn't sag, that way it looks nice and crisp.  I will begin to print the Cavs pieces next class with the same dimensions as the Indians final piece.  The Indians and Cavs piece designs are now attached at the bottom of the page.Over the past couple of classes, I have successfully 3D printed the 16 Cavs pieces.  The next step is to determine what to do next, since there a lot of classes to go.For the past week and a half, I have been working one designing piece holders.  On the left is the cardboard prototype of the piece holder, and took multiple tries of guessing and checking before it worked well.  In the middle, is the wood copy.  I decided to take off the top notches, instead making it smooth.  I also sanded the corners of the holders so that they are not sharp.  Afterwards, I decided that I would spray paint the holders black, since the laser cutter leaves discoloration that does not look good in this instance.  I spray painted for 2 classes, until the wood could not be seen anywhere.  At the bottom of the page, the Inkscape files for the piece holders are there.After a month and a half, the checkers board with 32 pieces along with 2 piece holders is complete. […]

  • Pinhole Camera
    by H - Nick DiGiorgio on October 10, 2017 at 7:26 pm

    Pinhole Camera - Nathan MiaoMy initial idea for a project was a laser-cut pinhole camera that shoots on 35mm film. As I thought about the design more and as Mr. Digiorgio pointed out, however, I should have started working on a prototype that shoots on photographic paper instead. The problem with shooting on film was that I had to finish a whole roll in order to see if it worked, while I could take each individual picture on photo paper. At first, I followed guidelines for a pinhole camera that I found online, however after my first three tests, I realized that I would have to expand the dimensions because they were designed for 35mm film. I wish that I originally accounted for the different dimensions, because I had to make a whole new prototype to fit the paper when I already had a working one. The biggest challenge that I faced was figuring out how to make a final prototype light-proof without using any tape on the outside. I eventually solved this problem by adding wooden pieces on the inside of a face to prevent light from entering. I was really happy that I was able to fix this issue before the end of the semester. Throughout the process of this project, I was really able to become comfortable with using the laser-cutters. The final model, cut on 1/8" wood, was glued together with tacky glue and taped on the inside and functions properly.Attached are the in-progress CDR files and the final SVG as well.Initial Idea:My initial idea is to create a working pinhole camera that shoots on 35mm film. It would be made out laser cut wood and 3D printed spools. The "lens" would be created out of a thin sheet of metal, maybe tin foil. First, I would have to create a working prototype that shoots on photographic paper.Paper Prototype:         I created a prototype for my pinhole camera out of cardstock. The prototype was made by folding cardstock and gluing it together using tabs. I also created a working shutter and latch for the side. I still have to think of how to get photographic paper in and out of the box. I also need to find a material to make the "lens" out of. I will probably start with tin foil.                                                               Cardboard Prototype #1:I created the first cardboard prototype for my camera using the laser cutter.I then taped it together in order to prevent light leaks I also added a "lens" using a sheet of metal, which i poked a hole in then sanded. A few things need to be improved: I think I need to create a different shutter that covers the lens better because it may leak light; I need to make a better latch and hinge (I just used tape); I need to add a way to hold the photographic paper. I should be able to test this prototype by next class.I attached the file I used to cut this first prototypeTest #1:I tested the camera for the first time. The camera was able to produce an image sort of; it was of the area right outside the darkroom, and the lines of the walls are visible. Not sure what the other objects exposed are, but probably part of the inside of the camera (there is also some glare from taking a picture of the picture). There is an issue with light leaks, but Sklad let me borrow a roll of electrical tape, hopefully that will work better than the masking tape.Carboard Prototype #2:I worked on the cardboard model a bit. The main difference was the back, which a changed the tabs a little bit. I also updated the shutter so there is no chance of leakage. I also used electrical tape instead of black masking tape. I still need to be able to make a hinge.The CDR file I used is attached below.Test #2:The second picture taken on the camera turned out a lot better than the first one. While the first one was just a fuzzy image, a clear picture can be seen in this one. There is a railing, trees, and the outline of Stirn Hall. There was still some light leaking in, so I have to fix the design a little bit.Wood Prototype #1:I cut the camera out in wood this time, updating the design from before. Instead of having a back with some sort of hinge, I decided to close off the whole camera and create a hole for a piece that would hold the photographic paper. The wood I used for this is too thick at the moment so I have to cut it in 1/16" wood with a slot for the paper.The CDR file I used is attached below:Photo Paper Tray:I cut out a tray for the photographic paper into 1/16" wood. I used the same model from the wood prototype except for a spot for the paper to go. I also added a small piece of cardstock to keep the paper in place.Test #3:I took another picture with the updated photo tray and it looks like all light leaks are fixed. The only problem is the size of the image, I need to make the camera deeper so more of the paper will be exposed.Wood Prototype #2:I realized from the last test photo that the camera needed to be deeper. I was not sure how much deeper so I decided to create a ratio between the diameter of the last photo and the distance from the hole to the paper. I then used the ratio, which I found to be 3:5, and measured the width of the full photo and found how much deeper the camera should be. I had to add 2.5" to the body of the camera, but otherwise it is the same. Test #4:I tested out the second wood prototype and it turned out very well. The image reaches farther to the edges of the photo paper, and a clear image can be seen. The only problem was that I underexposed the photo; I only exposed for 16 seconds.Final Product:I printed out my final prototype. Not much was change from the last one; the main difference was longer guides for the shutter and some guides on the inside for the tray and light seals. My challenge for this model was to seal it from all light without using any tape on the outside. This was really difficult to do because I was unable to tape the inside of the last face. Instead I decided to make wooden pieces that would be glued on the inside to block light.Attached is the final SVG file that was used to print the final modelFinal Tests:I took these two images together of the same scene. Both showed that I was successful in making the tape-less model lightproof. For the first image, I exposed it for 1 minute and it still turned out a bit underexposed, so I exposed the next photo for 2 minutes, and it turned out better. While the second picture could have been exposed for a little longer, it still turned out well. The only problem with the second photo is that I accidentally bumped the camera during the exposure. However, these tests still demonstrate that the final model is fully functional. […]

  • William Lindsey Box
    by William Lindsey on May 17, 2018 at 2:11 am

     The first step for me was to talk to the teacher about the machine and what program I would be using for designing it he then, explained to us what the different tools are and do and what we need to use to make the box. We wrote all of these steps and measurements down for future use and then tried our best to find a good piece of wood to cut in because our first try had a knot in it that knocked out a large section of the side wall. We ended up having to cut multiple times before getting it right. We designed the box in a program called v carve which allowed us to not only make the shape but create the tool path for the milling machine. We had to bolt down the wood before cutting and adjust the bit in the machine so that it was long enough to cut through the wood to the depth we needed. We then had to start the lid which was complicated. it really should not have been any more complicated than the bowl of the box but, we ran into some technical difficulties which we did not know how to fix but we eventually figured out how to get it done. Then once we had the design and tool path we had to find the wood which was a whole other struggle because there were very little amounts of this size wood which was 1-inch thickness most were two inches. But, we eventually found the wood we needed and got it cut after a couple tries. My ideas about this course have not changed I came into it expecting it to be pretty similar to the other fab lab course I took the first semester which, it was. I wouldn't change much about the class my only thing would be maybe having another teacher in the room because one teacher is not enough to help all the students as a lot of help is necessary with these new and different things we learn in the class. I really enjoyed all my projects and felt proud when they came together well. overall I really enjoyed this class even though there were a lot of struggles adjusting to and learning the new technologies.&nbs […]

  • Zach Clock
    by Zach Elenin on May 8, 2018 at 7:14 pm

      My final project was a clock. I planned on doing an abstract design but I still wanted to keep it simple. These were the 4 designs I had to decide between.   I chose to do the half circle design with the 4 etched rectangular designs. I liked how half of it is like a regular clock while the other half is somewhat abstract. The half circle is 4.5 inches and the 4 rectangular etches are 1.125 inches. 1.125 times 4 is 4.5. The lengths are equal.   This is the Adobe Illustrator design of the clock. I added a fifth rectangular etch piece and shortened each side from 1.125 inches to 0.9 inches.   These are the updated pieces of Aobe Illustrator design. I changed the design even more. The lines from the previous rectangular etchings would have affected the 12 and the 6. It is now a 4.5-inch half-circle with an extra 0.9-inch rectangle attached. There are 4 separate 1.7-inch wide rectangles leaving 0.8 inches for room for glue.    This is the cardboard cutout of each design. Each piece is assembled with tacky glue. This proved that the changes I made to the previous designs are usable.   This is the final design of my clock. I decided to stain it dark and keep lighter numbers because I like the contrast. I had to level out the motor with a scrap piece of wood. I also decided to cut the clock hands to make them a little shorter and make one white and one black. I also arranged the numbers differently on the right side of the clock. Since the left side is like a regular clock I arranged the numbers normally. The right side of the clock is arranged differently because of the more abstract design.&nbs […]

  • End of class presentation- Cara Kannensohn
    by Cara Kannensohn on May 7, 2018 at 6:11 pm

     Final write up:    Throughout the semester, I learned how to use many devices in the fab lab including the laser cutter, 3D printer, vinyl cutter and soldering iron. I found that printing on the laser cutter came easy to me, whereas 3D printing was more of a challenge.     I used to think that the concept of design was simple, and that you could create something at the push of a button. I have come to realize that this is not the case and that this course was much more challenging than I expected.     I enjoyed the creative aspect of the class, but I felt challenged when I had to make my ideas into actual objects. More specially, using adobe illustrator and tinker cad was difficult for me. Lastly, I felt proud when I successfully created a circuit so that my lamp was functional. &nbs […]

  • Cara Kannensohn's final project
    by Cara Kannensohn on May 7, 2018 at 5:05 pm

     Before the idea of final projects was introduced, I knew that i wanted to extend a previous project I had done. I decided on the lamp project because I really liked the lamp I designed. I decided to make a different kind of polyhedron. These are my sketches for ideas  Once I decided on the shape I wanted to make, I did a better sketch of it in order to understand how I was going to design it in adobe illustrator.   After I sketched it, I had to design a net layout that would fold together in order to create the 3D shapes fordable design in adobe. I cut out hexagons and squares and placed them in different ways until I found the right layout so that the shapes would fold into the truncated octahedron.   Next I designed the shape in adobe illustrator. I had to edit it a few times until I found the size I wanted and once I did, I laser cut it.   This is the laser-cut version of my shape. After seeing what it looked like folded up, I realized that I wanted it to be larger and that I wanted to connect it to my last project by adding stars.   This image is of my final design before I folded it. You can see the tabs that I added so that it would fold together in a cleaner way.   Finally, here is my final project. I really like the way it turned out and I think that if I had to go through the process again, the only thing I would have changed, is that I would have made it out of wood instead of poster board. The reason I did not do this in the first place is because I did not have the time it would have required to finish it. All in all, I like the way that it turned out in the end. Lastly, here is an image of the star projection that the lamp creates. &nbs […]

  • Final End of Class Post Danny Ecker
    by Daniel Ecker on May 7, 2018 at 3:07 pm

     During this year I have done multiple projects that have improved my knowledge in the Fab Lab. I did project this semester like a house with an LED light inside, a box from the shopbot, designer glasses, a creative clock, and an improved logo design. Throughout this semester I have used all the machines in the fab lab including the laser cutter, 3d printer, the vinyl cutter, and the shopbot. The best project I think I did this year was definitely the clock. It was definitely the one I did for the majority of the semester and I put the most effort in. I have really enjoyed my time in the Fab Lab this year and I hope to come back in the future to make more projects and help people.&nbs […]